Thứ Năm, 28 tháng 2, 2013
Bangkok’s heaving metropolis
Arguably Southeast Asia’s most established tourist destination, Thailand’s capital is home to a big city lifestyle that is also proving to be a big draw for younger generations.
BBC’s Fast Track brings you the latest insider travel news, a wealth of destinations, ama ing experiences and features and practical hints, tips and advice for your holidays.
Bangkok’s heaving metropolis
India’s extraordinary pilgrimage
By the time the Maha Kumbh Mela comes to a close on 10 March, local authorities estimate that some 100 million pilgrims will have cleansed their sins in the holy waters at the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna Rivers in Allahabad. But while bathing in the rivers is a highlight of the mela (festival), held every 144 years, there is much more taking place on shore. (Stuart Butler)
India’s extraordinary pilgrimage
Voyages: How to Spend 47 Hours on a Train and Not Go Crazy
With a quiet, pneumatic exhalation, the Sunset Limited left the station; it was 90 minutes into its journey, with 45 hours and 5 minutes to go. After leaving New Orleans Union Passenger Terminal, its point of departure, the seven-car train had rumbled first alongside the New Orleans Arena, where the Hornets play basketball, and then alongside the empty open-air courts, separated from the tracks by chain-link fence and concertina wire, where inmates at Orleans Parish Prison play basketball. It climbed steadily for two miles before passing over the di yingly narrow span of the Huey P. Long Bridge. From up there, 145 feet above the Mississippi River, the river’s full double turn, like a lowercase m written in a la y cursive, was visible; you could see why they called New Orleans the Crescent City.
Whee ing out of Schriever, the train rattled and jerked, and when I entered the lounge car, I had to grab onto the back of a booth to prevent myself from falling facedown in Clair’s lap.
“Woo!” screamed the eight ladies, as if cheering on a toreador. “Hey-ey!” “Choo-choo!” They dissolved into hysterics. It was a little past 10 a.m. They had told each other that they wouldn’t dip into their vodka until noon.
Coot was 52 years and 364 days old, and they were celebrating. “We wanted to take a long train ride together,” she said, “but we weren’t sure how long we could last. This is a trial run.” They left their husbands at home in Thibodaux (“They’re happy to let us go,” Lisa said) and were traveling to Lake Charles, a five-hour ride, where they would check into L’Auberge Casino Resort. After gambling for two days, they would return. If everything went well, they might make it an annual trip. Why, they could go to Memphis (8 hours, 15 minutes), Houston (9 hours, 18 minutes), even San Antonio (15 hours, 5 minutes). They were dressed smartly in pearls, dark sunglasses, shawls, silver bracelets, silver watches and silver medallions with lapis la uli. Most of the women appeared to have styled their hair especially for the excursion. Alice possessed a vaporous cloud of wavy brown hair — her husband called it “big, sexy hair.” Barbara had what she described as a gray dome. She said that when the eight of them got together, it was only so long before someone started catching the wall.
“Someone show that boy how to catch the wall!”
Barbara pulled out her phone and showed videos of friends catching the wall. There are three steps to catching the wall. First, you go down on your hands and knees on the floor, facing away from a wall. Then you jog your legs up the wall, one at a time, until you’re halfway to a headstand. Finally, with your palms planted on the ground, your feet planted on the wall and your butt sticking up in the air, you jiggle. “My stomach hurts because we laugh so much,” Barbara said between laughing fits. “It’s like an aerobic exercise. We’ll all have six-packs by the time we get off the train.”
The women were playing Pedro (“PEE-dro”), a card game popular in Cajun country, something of a cross between bridge and spades. For their trip, Coot printed out special scorecards on which she had typed her friends’ names. They had played Pedro as long as they could remember; it was not uncommon for them to play for 12 hours at a time. While they played, they sang. Lisa led the group in a round of “Gas-Food-Lodging,” a song she wrote when she was 7. Her friends knew all the words.
Voyages: How to Spend 47 Hours on a Train and Not Go Cra y
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Fishing at the Russell-Fields Pier while the sun sets in Panama City Beach, Fla.
The town sits on the Florida Panhandle about 100 miles east of Pensacola.
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Fishing at the Russell-Fields Pier while the sun sets in Panama City Beach, Fla.
The town sits on the Florida Panhandle about 100 miles east of Pensacola.
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Fishing at the Russell-Fields Pier while the sun sets in Panama City Beach, Fla.
The town sits on the Florida Panhandle about 100 miles east of Pensacola.
Sand, Surf and Seafood in Panama City Beach, Fla.
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
FRIDAY
3 p.m.
1. Hooked From the Pier
One lovely location from which to make your initial assessment of the stunning shore is the Russell-Fields Pier (pcbgov.com/visitors_citypier.htm), jutting 1,500 feet into the emerald blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Take a stroll to the end of the pier to marvel at the miles of sugary white sand stretching in either direction as far as the eye can see. Or rent a rod at the pier’s bait-and-tackle shop, Half Hitch Tackle (halfhitch.com), and cast a line to see what’s biting. After you’ve caught your fill of pompano, whiting and Spanish mackerel, retire to Hook’d Pier Bar Grill (16201 Front Beach Road; hookedpierbar.com) at the base of the pier for a cold beer and a snack of honey-and-lime fried plantains ($5.95). On this casual spot’s sunny wooden deck, with views of the sloping sand and rolling waves, you’re sure to find a sympathetic ear for unspooling your tales about the big one that got away.
6 p.m.
2. Bayou Bites
Panama City Beach’s long main drag, Front Beach Road, is lined with a disproportionate number of stores peddling airbrushed T-shirts, cheap bikinis and gaudy souvenirs. But nestled among this neon riot of déclassé consumerism is the occasional refreshing exception, like Dee’s Hangout (10440 Front Beach; deeshangout.com), a homey restaurant speciali ing in Cajun cuisine. The no-frills atmosphere won’t transport you to the bayou, but the daily specials scrawled on the rear chalkboard might. Recently, a Cajun platter special included a sampling of fried catfish, chicken gumbo, shrimp étouffée, coleslaw and hushpuppies ($12.95). The regular menu lists winning dishes like Cajun-spiced jambalaya with shrimp and sausage ($12.99). Try a bottle of pale ale from the Grayton Beer Company, a Panhandle microbrewery that opened in 2011 less than 30 miles west of Panama City Beach.
9 p.m.
3. Tiptop Taps
During spring break, Panama City Beach plays host to thumping mega-clubs with capacities greater than small towns, wet T-shirt contests, foam parties and enough fluorescent glow sticks to signal warnings to the Coast Guard. These concentrated revelry ones are not hard to find, but those who prefer civili ed drinking to debauched dancing should visit the new Fishale Taphouse and Grill (7715 Front Beach; fishales.com), a craft beer bar that opened last year. Many rare Dixie brews cycle through the bar’s 60-some taps, so you’re bound to find something intriguing. Sample the Pensacola Sawgrass ($4.75), a refreshing pale wheat ale from just down the Florida Panhandle, or try the Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale ($5.50) from the Mississippi craft brewery La y Magnolia. Then retire with your pint to an armchair in front of the co y fireplace.
SATURDAY
8 a.m.
4. Trails and Trees
Start the day with a brisk walk, jog or bike ride through Conservation Park (100 Conservation Drive; pcbgov.com/conservation-park.htm), a nature preserve that opened in October 2011 only two miles from the beach. With 24 miles of trails winding through 2,900 acres of parkland, there’s a path to suit every fitness level. Regardless of whether you embark on a relaxing half-mile loop or a scenic 11-mile trek, you’re bound to cross wooden boardwalks traversing the park’s wetland sections, where woodpeckers tap at tall trees and alligators lurk between cypress knees. Sprinkled along the trails and tracts of palmettos and slash pines are unobtrusive signs identifying the local flora and fauna; pause to read the informative descriptions and savor the peaceful sound of leaves rustling in the bree e.
10:30 a.m.
5. Sunken Treasures
To honor the town’s considerable naval presence and history, dive into the Man in the Sea Museum (17314 Panama City Beach Parkway; maninthesea.org; $5). The warehouselike museum was created by the Institute of Diving, a nonprofit organi ation established by divers from the United States Navy’s Sealab program. It’s an impressive repository of historical maritime items ranging from antiquated diving masks to an entire underwater living facility: the United States Navy Sealab-1, which now calls the parking lot home. Inside the museum, there are exhibitions illustrating primitive diving techniques, an old submarine and mannequins displaying the commercial diving gear of yore.
Noon
6. Muffulettas and More
The Big Easy is 300 miles away, but inside the pink house of David’s New Orleans Style Sno-Balls (13913-A Panama City Beach Parkway; davidssnoballs.com), you’ll find Crescent City specialties like meat-layered muffulettas and “Café du Monde beignets” buried under a snowdrift of powdered sugar. If your stomach is growling, dig into a messy roast beef po’boy (six inches, $6.25). But in warm weather, most patrons arrive in pursuit of a stuffed “sno-ball,” a cupful of flavored shaved ice atop a twirl of soft serve ice cream. Can’t decide among the 40-plus flavors? Go with strawberry daiquiri (10 o ., $3.75). Or to completely overload on sugar, order the Key lime “sno-ball” pie with crumbled graham crackers ($3.95).
2 p.m.
7. Beach Bliss
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
FRIDAY
3 p.m.
1. Hooked From the Pier
One lovely location from which to make your initial assessment of the stunning shore is the Russell-Fields Pier (pcbgov.com/visitors_citypier.htm), jutting 1,500 feet into the emerald blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Take a stroll to the end of the pier to marvel at the miles of sugary white sand stretching in either direction as far as the eye can see. Or rent a rod at the pier’s bait-and-tackle shop, Half Hitch Tackle (halfhitch.com), and cast a line to see what’s biting. After you’ve caught your fill of pompano, whiting and Spanish mackerel, retire to Hook’d Pier Bar Grill (16201 Front Beach Road; hookedpierbar.com) at the base of the pier for a cold beer and a snack of honey-and-lime fried plantains ($5.95). On this casual spot’s sunny wooden deck, with views of the sloping sand and rolling waves, you’re sure to find a sympathetic ear for unspooling your tales about the big one that got away.
6 p.m.
2. Bayou Bites
Panama City Beach’s long main drag, Front Beach Road, is lined with a disproportionate number of stores peddling airbrushed T-shirts, cheap bikinis and gaudy souvenirs. But nestled among this neon riot of déclassé consumerism is the occasional refreshing exception, like Dee’s Hangout (10440 Front Beach; deeshangout.com), a homey restaurant speciali ing in Cajun cuisine. The no-frills atmosphere won’t transport you to the bayou, but the daily specials scrawled on the rear chalkboard might. Recently, a Cajun platter special included a sampling of fried catfish, chicken gumbo, shrimp étouffée, coleslaw and hushpuppies ($12.95). The regular menu lists winning dishes like Cajun-spiced jambalaya with shrimp and sausage ($12.99). Try a bottle of pale ale from the Grayton Beer Company, a Panhandle microbrewery that opened in 2011 less than 30 miles west of Panama City Beach.
9 p.m.
3. Tiptop Taps
During spring break, Panama City Beach plays host to thumping mega-clubs with capacities greater than small towns, wet T-shirt contests, foam parties and enough fluorescent glow sticks to signal warnings to the Coast Guard. These concentrated revelry ones are not hard to find, but those who prefer civili ed drinking to debauched dancing should visit the new Fishale Taphouse and Grill (7715 Front Beach; fishales.com), a craft beer bar that opened last year. Many rare Dixie brews cycle through the bar’s 60-some taps, so you’re bound to find something intriguing. Sample the Pensacola Sawgrass ($4.75), a refreshing pale wheat ale from just down the Florida Panhandle, or try the Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale ($5.50) from the Mississippi craft brewery La y Magnolia. Then retire with your pint to an armchair in front of the co y fireplace.
SATURDAY
8 a.m.
4. Trails and Trees
Start the day with a brisk walk, jog or bike ride through Conservation Park (100 Conservation Drive; pcbgov.com/conservation-park.htm), a nature preserve that opened in October 2011 only two miles from the beach. With 24 miles of trails winding through 2,900 acres of parkland, there’s a path to suit every fitness level. Regardless of whether you embark on a relaxing half-mile loop or a scenic 11-mile trek, you’re bound to cross wooden boardwalks traversing the park’s wetland sections, where woodpeckers tap at tall trees and alligators lurk between cypress knees. Sprinkled along the trails and tracts of palmettos and slash pines are unobtrusive signs identifying the local flora and fauna; pause to read the informative descriptions and savor the peaceful sound of leaves rustling in the bree e.
10:30 a.m.
5. Sunken Treasures
To honor the town’s considerable naval presence and history, dive into the Man in the Sea Museum (17314 Panama City Beach Parkway; maninthesea.org; $5). The warehouselike museum was created by the Institute of Diving, a nonprofit organi ation established by divers from the United States Navy’s Sealab program. It’s an impressive repository of historical maritime items ranging from antiquated diving masks to an entire underwater living facility: the United States Navy Sealab-1, which now calls the parking lot home. Inside the museum, there are exhibitions illustrating primitive diving techniques, an old submarine and mannequins displaying the commercial diving gear of yore.
Noon
6. Muffulettas and More
The Big Easy is 300 miles away, but inside the pink house of David’s New Orleans Style Sno-Balls (13913-A Panama City Beach Parkway; davidssnoballs.com), you’ll find Crescent City specialties like meat-layered muffulettas and “Café du Monde beignets” buried under a snowdrift of powdered sugar. If your stomach is growling, dig into a messy roast beef po’boy (six inches, $6.25). But in warm weather, most patrons arrive in pursuit of a stuffed “sno-ball,” a cupful of flavored shaved ice atop a twirl of soft serve ice cream. Can’t decide among the 40-plus flavors? Go with strawberry daiquiri (10 o ., $3.75). Or to completely overload on sugar, order the Key lime “sno-ball” pie with crumbled graham crackers ($3.95).
2 p.m.
7. Beach Bliss
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
FRIDAY
3 p.m.
1. Hooked From the Pier
One lovely location from which to make your initial assessment of the stunning shore is the Russell-Fields Pier (pcbgov.com/visitors_citypier.htm), jutting 1,500 feet into the emerald blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Take a stroll to the end of the pier to marvel at the miles of sugary white sand stretching in either direction as far as the eye can see. Or rent a rod at the pier’s bait-and-tackle shop, Half Hitch Tackle (halfhitch.com), and cast a line to see what’s biting. After you’ve caught your fill of pompano, whiting and Spanish mackerel, retire to Hook’d Pier Bar Grill (16201 Front Beach Road; hookedpierbar.com) at the base of the pier for a cold beer and a snack of honey-and-lime fried plantains ($5.95). On this casual spot’s sunny wooden deck, with views of the sloping sand and rolling waves, you’re sure to find a sympathetic ear for unspooling your tales about the big one that got away.
6 p.m.
2. Bayou Bites
Panama City Beach’s long main drag, Front Beach Road, is lined with a disproportionate number of stores peddling airbrushed T-shirts, cheap bikinis and gaudy souvenirs. But nestled among this neon riot of déclassé consumerism is the occasional refreshing exception, like Dee’s Hangout (10440 Front Beach; deeshangout.com), a homey restaurant speciali ing in Cajun cuisine. The no-frills atmosphere won’t transport you to the bayou, but the daily specials scrawled on the rear chalkboard might. Recently, a Cajun platter special included a sampling of fried catfish, chicken gumbo, shrimp étouffée, coleslaw and hushpuppies ($12.95). The regular menu lists winning dishes like Cajun-spiced jambalaya with shrimp and sausage ($12.99). Try a bottle of pale ale from the Grayton Beer Company, a Panhandle microbrewery that opened in 2011 less than 30 miles west of Panama City Beach.
9 p.m.
3. Tiptop Taps
During spring break, Panama City Beach plays host to thumping mega-clubs with capacities greater than small towns, wet T-shirt contests, foam parties and enough fluorescent glow sticks to signal warnings to the Coast Guard. These concentrated revelry ones are not hard to find, but those who prefer civili ed drinking to debauched dancing should visit the new Fishale Taphouse and Grill (7715 Front Beach; fishales.com), a craft beer bar that opened last year. Many rare Dixie brews cycle through the bar’s 60-some taps, so you’re bound to find something intriguing. Sample the Pensacola Sawgrass ($4.75), a refreshing pale wheat ale from just down the Florida Panhandle, or try the Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale ($5.50) from the Mississippi craft brewery La y Magnolia. Then retire with your pint to an armchair in front of the co y fireplace.
SATURDAY
8 a.m.
4. Trails and Trees
Start the day with a brisk walk, jog or bike ride through Conservation Park (100 Conservation Drive; pcbgov.com/conservation-park.htm), a nature preserve that opened in October 2011 only two miles from the beach. With 24 miles of trails winding through 2,900 acres of parkland, there’s a path to suit every fitness level. Regardless of whether you embark on a relaxing half-mile loop or a scenic 11-mile trek, you’re bound to cross wooden boardwalks traversing the park’s wetland sections, where woodpeckers tap at tall trees and alligators lurk between cypress knees. Sprinkled along the trails and tracts of palmettos and slash pines are unobtrusive signs identifying the local flora and fauna; pause to read the informative descriptions and savor the peaceful sound of leaves rustling in the bree e.
10:30 a.m.
5. Sunken Treasures
To honor the town’s considerable naval presence and history, dive into the Man in the Sea Museum (17314 Panama City Beach Parkway; maninthesea.org; $5). The warehouselike museum was created by the Institute of Diving, a nonprofit organi ation established by divers from the United States Navy’s Sealab program. It’s an impressive repository of historical maritime items ranging from antiquated diving masks to an entire underwater living facility: the United States Navy Sealab-1, which now calls the parking lot home. Inside the museum, there are exhibitions illustrating primitive diving techniques, an old submarine and mannequins displaying the commercial diving gear of yore.
Noon
6. Muffulettas and More
The Big Easy is 300 miles away, but inside the pink house of David’s New Orleans Style Sno-Balls (13913-A Panama City Beach Parkway; davidssnoballs.com), you’ll find Crescent City specialties like meat-layered muffulettas and “Café du Monde beignets” buried under a snowdrift of powdered sugar. If your stomach is growling, dig into a messy roast beef po’boy (six inches, $6.25). But in warm weather, most patrons arrive in pursuit of a stuffed “sno-ball,” a cupful of flavored shaved ice atop a twirl of soft serve ice cream. Can’t decide among the 40-plus flavors? Go with strawberry daiquiri (10 o ., $3.75). Or to completely overload on sugar, order the Key lime “sno-ball” pie with crumbled graham crackers ($3.95).
2 p.m.
7. Beach Bliss
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
FRIDAY
3 p.m.
1. Hooked From the Pier
One lovely location from which to make your initial assessment of the stunning shore is the Russell-Fields Pier (pcbgov.com/visitors_citypier.htm), jutting 1,500 feet into the emerald blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Take a stroll to the end of the pier to marvel at the miles of sugary white sand stretching in either direction as far as the eye can see. Or rent a rod at the pier’s bait-and-tackle shop, Half Hitch Tackle (halfhitch.com), and cast a line to see what’s biting. After you’ve caught your fill of pompano, whiting and Spanish mackerel, retire to Hook’d Pier Bar Grill (16201 Front Beach Road; hookedpierbar.com) at the base of the pier for a cold beer and a snack of honey-and-lime fried plantains ($5.95). On this casual spot’s sunny wooden deck, with views of the sloping sand and rolling waves, you’re sure to find a sympathetic ear for unspooling your tales about the big one that got away.
6 p.m.
2. Bayou Bites
Panama City Beach’s long main drag, Front Beach Road, is lined with a disproportionate number of stores peddling airbrushed T-shirts, cheap bikinis and gaudy souvenirs. But nestled among this neon riot of déclassé consumerism is the occasional refreshing exception, like Dee’s Hangout (10440 Front Beach; deeshangout.com), a homey restaurant speciali ing in Cajun cuisine. The no-frills atmosphere won’t transport you to the bayou, but the daily specials scrawled on the rear chalkboard might. Recently, a Cajun platter special included a sampling of fried catfish, chicken gumbo, shrimp étouffée, coleslaw and hushpuppies ($12.95). The regular menu lists winning dishes like Cajun-spiced jambalaya with shrimp and sausage ($12.99). Try a bottle of pale ale from the Grayton Beer Company, a Panhandle microbrewery that opened in 2011 less than 30 miles west of Panama City Beach.
9 p.m.
3. Tiptop Taps
During spring break, Panama City Beach plays host to thumping mega-clubs with capacities greater than small towns, wet T-shirt contests, foam parties and enough fluorescent glow sticks to signal warnings to the Coast Guard. These concentrated revelry ones are not hard to find, but those who prefer civili ed drinking to debauched dancing should visit the new Fishale Taphouse and Grill (7715 Front Beach; fishales.com), a craft beer bar that opened last year. Many rare Dixie brews cycle through the bar’s 60-some taps, so you’re bound to find something intriguing. Sample the Pensacola Sawgrass ($4.75), a refreshing pale wheat ale from just down the Florida Panhandle, or try the Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale ($5.50) from the Mississippi craft brewery La y Magnolia. Then retire with your pint to an armchair in front of the co y fireplace.
SATURDAY
8 a.m.
4. Trails and Trees
Start the day with a brisk walk, jog or bike ride through Conservation Park (100 Conservation Drive; pcbgov.com/conservation-park.htm), a nature preserve that opened in October 2011 only two miles from the beach. With 24 miles of trails winding through 2,900 acres of parkland, there’s a path to suit every fitness level. Regardless of whether you embark on a relaxing half-mile loop or a scenic 11-mile trek, you’re bound to cross wooden boardwalks traversing the park’s wetland sections, where woodpeckers tap at tall trees and alligators lurk between cypress knees. Sprinkled along the trails and tracts of palmettos and slash pines are unobtrusive signs identifying the local flora and fauna; pause to read the informative descriptions and savor the peaceful sound of leaves rustling in the bree e.
10:30 a.m.
5. Sunken Treasures
To honor the town’s considerable naval presence and history, dive into the Man in the Sea Museum (17314 Panama City Beach Parkway; maninthesea.org; $5). The warehouselike museum was created by the Institute of Diving, a nonprofit organi ation established by divers from the United States Navy’s Sealab program. It’s an impressive repository of historical maritime items ranging from antiquated diving masks to an entire underwater living facility: the United States Navy Sealab-1, which now calls the parking lot home. Inside the museum, there are exhibitions illustrating primitive diving techniques, an old submarine and mannequins displaying the commercial diving gear of yore.
Noon
6. Muffulettas and More
The Big Easy is 300 miles away, but inside the pink house of David’s New Orleans Style Sno-Balls (13913-A Panama City Beach Parkway; davidssnoballs.com), you’ll find Crescent City specialties like meat-layered muffulettas and “Café du Monde beignets” buried under a snowdrift of powdered sugar. If your stomach is growling, dig into a messy roast beef po’boy (six inches, $6.25). But in warm weather, most patrons arrive in pursuit of a stuffed “sno-ball,” a cupful of flavored shaved ice atop a twirl of soft serve ice cream. Can’t decide among the 40-plus flavors? Go with strawberry daiquiri (10 o ., $3.75). Or to completely overload on sugar, order the Key lime “sno-ball” pie with crumbled graham crackers ($3.95).
2 p.m.
7. Beach Bliss
36 Hours in Panama City Beach, Fla.
Phnom Penh on the cheap
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia – The Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh is rapidly moderni ing. A gargantuan hotel and casino called NagaWorld has recently been completed, and dime-a-do en skyscrapers are popping up all over the city. But some of the city’s most interesting places are connected to its past. A number of museums honor victims of the Khmer Rouge genocide, while French Colonial architecture harkens back to a bygone era when the city was known as the Pearl of Asia. Decades later, the nickname still seems apt, suggesting pure beauty inside a tough shell.
Phnom Penh’s developing tourism sector also means that nearly every attraction has an entry fee, even if just a dollar or two. But in keeping with history, some sites cost nothing at all.
CHROY CHANGVAR BRIDGE
To observe a country at a crossroads, what better place than a serene suspension bridge? Constructed in 1966 and rebuilt in 1995 after its destruction at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, the Japanese-Cambodian Friendship Bridge provides a panoramic look at life along both sides of the Tonle Sap River. Make treks across the narrow footpath if you dare, though be prepared to dodge oncoming traffic, or simply pause to admire a view that stretches for miles.
SISOWATH QUAY
For a waterfront adventure a bit closer to the ground, wander past the charming cafe, boisterous pubs and many shops along this popular riverfront stretch. With the Royal Palace in the background, duck into the galleries along Street 178, known to locals as Art Street, for a glimpse at local handicrafts and silk samples. Overlooking the Chaktomuk, the convergence point of the city’s three rivers – the Tonle Sap, the Mekong, and the Basaac – this paved walkway bustles at any time of day but comes alive at night, when tourists and locals alike pour into mainstays like the Foreign Correspondents Club bar.
PHSAR THOM THMEI
Beneath a lemon-yellow art deco dome, the Central Market offers miles of no-strings-attached window-shopping. But if you can’t stand the thought of leaving empty-handed, pick up flip-flops, jewelry, delicacies like juicy mangosteen fruit or fried insects, or khama scarves in bright, gingham-like patterns. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, the nearby Night Market (Phsar Reatrey) becomes to go-to spot for displaying handicrafts produced by local artisans.
TEMPLE TIME
With a pricetag of a dollar, admission to the centuries-old hilltop temple of Wat Phnom isn’t quite free. Nor are the elephant rides that are offered on site. But a free and carefree stroll along the bucolic grounds is a reward in and of itself. Sculpted into the hillside leading to the temple’s entrance is a functioning topiary clock, whereas the gigantic sculpture of a Naga, or sea snake, provides yet another photo op.
MONUMENTAL TRIBUTES
Though statues crop up in unusual places around town, two of the most iconic structures sit just steps away from the Royal Palace. Inspired by lotus blossoms and Buddhist stupas, or burial mounds, the bulbous spire of the Independence Monument is a striking shade of terra cotta by day and brightly illuminated by night. Glowing or not, it was constructed in 1958 to commemorate independence from the French that had been achieved five years prior. The concrete soldiers at the base of the Cambodian Vietnamese Friendship Monument, on the other hand, pay tribute to an alliance formed between the two countries in the aftermath of the 1979 fall of the Khmer Rouge. But its political message makes it a lightning rod for protest – in 2007, unidentified suspects detonated a bomb near the statue.
Phnom Penh on the cheap
State Department"s Passport Day is canceled
Anticipated federal budget cuts expected to kick in Friday have forced the cancellation of the U.S. State Department’s Passport Day on March 9.
“Due to the anticipated sequestration, the Department of State must cancel ‘Passport Day in the USA,’ which had been scheduled for Saturday, March 9, 2013,” the State Department said in an email Thursday. “We regret that we cannot offer this service as planned.”
The Los Angeles Passport Agency at 11000 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1000 (Wilshire and Veteran), was to have been open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. for applications and renewals. No appointment was necessary.
The State Department had a booth at the Los Angeles Times Travel show Feb. 23 and 24, where fliers touting Passport Day were distributed.
If you need to renew or apply for a passport and you had that day in mind, all is not lost: “Some non-federal passport acceptance facilities, such as post offices, may be open that day to accept passport applications,” the State Department said. You can find more information by clicking this link.
For information on documentation, go to the State Department website.
Los Angeles Times Washington columnist Doyle McManus explained the cuts this way in a Feb. 24 article: “With no negotiations under way, it’s virtually certain that on March 1, a long list of federal programs will get slashed. But at this point, the only thing Democrats and Republicans agree on is that the mandatory cuts will hurt the economy, the nation’s security and the well-being of the American people.”
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State Department"s Passport Day is canceled
The Bright Side of Greece: Lower Prices, Fewer Tourists
I keep getting asked if Greece is “safe” for travelers — a question that feels absurd the instant you arrive there. Ask anyone who’s been to Greece recently, and you’ll learn that safety concerns have been played up by both Greek and international media outlets.
Frankly, this is a great time to travel to Greece. The financial crisis — while making life difficult for most Greeks — is a boon for budget travelers. Hotel prices are down, the normally warm Greek hospitality has ratcheted up a few notches, and roads outside of Athens are essentially traffic-free, as higher gas prices have caused locals to cut down on inessential driving. The downsides (shorter hours at sights, reduced long-distance bus service, occasional strikes) are noticeable, but not reason enough for you to postpone a trip. All the things you’re looking for in a trip to Greece — mouthwatering food, deep-blue water, striking scenery, and the thrill of connecting with ancient history — are all here waiting for you…at a cheaper price.
Greece is easy on travelers. Tourism makes up 15 percent of the gross domestic product. The Greeks pride themselves on a concept called “filotimo” (love of honor), roughly translated as openness, friendliness, and hospitality. Social faux pas made by unwary foreigners are easily overlooked by Greeks, and many speak English.
Despite the headlines, the major sights of this ancient land are open and relatively crowd-free. Athens, while sprawling and congested, has a compact, pleasant tourist one capped by the famous Acropolis — the world’s top ancient site. With its central location, it’s also the perfect launch pad for farther-flung destinations. You can commune with ancient spirits at the center of the world — the oracle near the picturesque mountain hamlet of Delphi. Or travel farther to the Peloponnese, the large peninsula that hangs from the rest of the Greek mainland, and experience a wild, mountainous landscape dotted with the ruins of Mycenaean palaces, ancient temples, frescoed churches, and countless medieval hilltop castles. Most travelers like to take a vacation from their vacation on one of the famous Greek isles, such as traffic-free Hydra, whitewashed Mykonos, or volcanic Santorini.
It all sounds idyllic — and for the most part, it is. On my last trip here, if it hadn’t been for the blaring headlines and shrill news reports calling the demonstrations “riots,” I probably wouldn’t have been aware of them at all — I was too busy pondering the ancients at the Acropolis and nibbling olives at dinner. I found Greece to be the same old wonderful place…with, perhaps, a few more minor headaches.
Political protests are indeed a common occurrence, and not just in Athens. Demonstrating is woven into European democracies. And, while protesting is generally just too much trouble for most Americans, Europeans are quick to hit the streets when they want to raise their collective voice. I think it’s healthy. It’s my hunch that for many years to come, Europe will be sorting this out, and travelers will encounter parades and rallies in front of parliament buildings — and anarchists wanting to hijack these events to make their points and get on the news. As the TV news media loves vivid footage, this is easy to do. But most rallies involve ero violence. When violence has broken out in Athens, it’s been between police and protesters, not bystanders…and certainly not tourists out for a stroll.
It’s pretty easy to steer clear of any unrest. Protest rallies are generally scheduled in advance: Your hotelier can tell you if anything’s likely to be afoot in a main city square during your visit. Strikes are another nuisance, but generally not prolonged — just a day or two here and there. (Strikes have long been a way of life in Greece; most Greeks see a general strike as an excuse for an impromptu holiday.)
What’s the biggest impact of the crisis on visitors? It’s the satisfaction you’ll get from contributing to the economy of a nation dealing with tough times — and the joy that comes from a tourist industry that really appreciates your presence. Sharing a beer or a coffee with a talkative native can provide you with a lesson in contemporary Greece that’s every bit as fascinating as the Classical stuff.
Greece has, it seems, more than its share of troubles right now. Still, Greeks are optimistic by nature. Most believe that they’ll get through these tough economic times. They’re quick to point out that, regardless of the economy, the olives remain just as tasty, the water just as blue, and the sun — like the Greek people — just as warm.
The Bright Side of Greece: Lower Prices, Fewer Tourists
Vegas Poker Rooms Fold
LAS VEGAS — The Tropicana hoped to step back into the big leagues when it opened its poker room in the heart of the Las Vegas Strip, touting it as the coolest in town.
But that same morning, federal agents shut down the three biggest online poker sites on the Internet. Last September, less than a year and a half later, the iconic casino quietly swapped out its green felt tables for slot machines.
It’s a story that’s become increasingly common as the crackdown on Internet gambling weakens poker’s appeal, and the casinos that once competed to lure fans of Texas Hold ‘Em abandon the waning game in favor of more lucrative alternatives.
Poker has never been a big moneymaker like slot machines or roulette. But when the game’s popularity soared during the 2000s, casinos were willing to forgo the extra dollars to get players inside their buildings.
Now the calculus is shifting. In Sin City, epicenter of the poker cra e, at least eight rooms have folded in the past two years. The trend is also playing out in Mississippi riverboats, Indian casinos and gambling halls near big cities from California to Florida.
Poker’s proponents insist the game remains as popular as ever, and some larger casinos say their rooms are bustling.
In a statement this month announcing the World Series of Poker lineup, executive director Ty Stewart said the summer bonan a in Las Vegas would be an “affirmation about the strength and global appeal of the game.”
But the spate of poker room closures on the Strip has some wondering whether the largest gambling trend to sweep the country in 25 years may be losing momentum.
“I just think the allure of poker is lessening,” said William Thompson, author of the encyclopedia “Gambling in America” and professor of public administration at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. “That’s one reason the smaller casinos would just say, `Hey it’s not worth all the time to set everything up. A slot machine would do a lot better.’”
Poker revenue has been falling in Nevada since 2007, the year after the federal government first cracked down on virtual gambling and forced online companies to close or relocate offshore.
The recession hobbled casinos across the board, but while winnings from other games began to pick back up in 2010, poker revenue continues to slump by an average of 6 percent a year, according to annual reports from the state Gaming Control Board.
Poker revenues stacked up to $123 million last year, down from a high of $168 million in 2007.
Entries in the World Series of Poker’s main event also took tumble in 2007, falling by 28 percent from a high of 8,773. Entries have only topped 7,000 once in the years since.
On April 15, 2011, the federal government took its strongest stand yet against the semi-legal world of internet poker, blacking out three major sites on a date later dubbed “Black Friday.”
No longer could fresh crops of poker players develop their games online.
The Tropicana hotel-resort, which was remaking itself with several major renovations at the time, opened its new poker room the same spring day.
“Poker had gone through a dramatic popularity phase. It grew really quickly. And we jumped on board,” said Fred Harmon, chief marketing officer for the casino that sits on a busy Strip intersection opposite the MGM Grand and New York New York.
The decision to replace the room with slot machines last fall was pure economics, Harmon said.
“I think every company over the last several years have had to look at what they do and what makes money,” he said.
Casinos across the country are making the same calculation.
Sam’s Town in Tunica, Mississippi, closed its poker room in January, citing the economy. The Seminole Casino Hollywood near Fort Lauderdale, Fla., replaced its room with slots in September.
Indian casinos in states like Minnesota and the Dakotas are also pulling their rooms, according to marketing consultant Theron “Scarlet Raven” Thompson.
“What you’re seeing is the mom and pop-si ed poker rooms are closing. The larger properties are monopoli ing the poker crowd,” he said.
Several smaller Las Vegas casinos decided they no longer wanted to bet on the game in 2012, including Ellis Island, which closed its room just two months after opening it. Casino bosses also removed rooms from the Silverton south of the Strip, Aliante to the north, and Fit gerald’s, which eliminated its room when it rebranded as the D.
The Gold Coast, the Pla a and Tuscany casinos closed their rooms in 2011.
Poker has never been a high-profit game for casinos is because players exchange money with each other, not the house. Rooms must employ a dealer for every table and can only collect portion of what players put down, usually about 5 percent.
Yet at the height of the cra e, casinos scrambled to install rooms for a new generation of fans.
The game’s meteoric run is generally attributed to the rise of Internet gambling, new technology that let viewers see players’ hidden cards in televised tournaments and a watershed moment during the 2003 World Series of Poker when an amateur with the unlikely name Chris Moneymaker claimed the $2.5 million first pri e in front of a million television viewers.
After Moneymaker’s win, the MGM Grand on the Las Vegas Strip reopened its poker room, which had been closed for years, and Caesars Palace announced plans to open its first room in more than a decade. The Venetian followed suit in 2006.
Mega-casinos continue to invest in the game. The Venetian added 17 tables to its room in September, making it the biggest game in town, Caesars Entertainment added a slot-style progressive jackpot element to its games earlier this year, and the expansive room at the Bellagio is still packed most nights.
Venetian poker director Kathy Raymond said the expansion, which was part of a larger casino floor renovation, has drawn more players to the already popular room.
“I think that the love people have for poker hasn’t subsided,” she said. “It may be part of the economic environment, but I don’t think the interest has subsided at all.”
She acknowledged that smaller casinos are struggling to claim their piece of the market.
“You really need volume to operate a successful poker room,” she said. “The overhead can’t be absorbed by just a few tables.”
In the end, the very thing that made poker so appealing – its air of tradition and class – may be its undoing, at least on the gambling floor, William Thompson said. After all, casinos make their billions by giving people new and stimulating ways to lose money.
While slot machine developers can roll out a new “Family Guy” or “oodles of poodles” game ever few months, poker remains unchanged.
“With slot machines, you can keep reinventing them, so it’s going to last longer. They’re throwing new wrinkles in all the time,” he said.
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Vegas Poker Rooms Fold
10 Awesome U.S. Silent Retreat Centers For Peace, Quiet & De-Stressing
For stressed-out city dwellers, silent retreats — being dubbed one of the biggest “travel trends” of 2013 – may be the perfect antidote to the constant noise of busy, work-driven urban lives. Although these Walden-esque getaways are not for the faint-hearted (the retreats require days of solitude and ero interaction with technology, in most cases), their restorative benefits are many. Increasingly, travelers seeking relaxation, balance and spiritual renewal are heading to meditation centers from the Berkshires to Big Sur in search of simplicity.
If you’re ready to completely unplug and recharge, you might want to consider taking a temporary vow of silence at one of the country’s best spiritual centers. From a lodge in rural Oregon surrounded by natural hot springs to a coastal California getaway, these 10 meditation facilities offer group and personal silent retreats for a few days to a full month of nothing but stillness and de-stressing. Click through the slideshow below for our top picks in the U.S.
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10 Awesome U.S. Silent Retreat Centers For Peace, Quiet & De-Stressing
A Traveler"s Tipping Guide
Service in America is “an opportunity not an obligation,” Daniel Post, the great-great-grandson of etiquette expert Emily Post, told Huffington Post Travel this week. Yet, the finer points of tipping are something that often concerns Americans traveling abroad and even at home.
We spoke with Post, as well as etiquette expert Lisa Gache, founder of Beverly Hills Manners, to get a sense of what’s typical protocol here and compiled a list of ‘how-tos’ when abroad.
IN AMERICA
Restaurants: Gache suggests not to tip less than 15 percent in restaurants in the U.S. You can, however, leave an especially big tip if you ordered expensive wine. “I’d suggest leaving an extra 10 percent for that,” says Gache. Post seconds Gache, saying: “Tipping after a meal in the United States is a fundamental part of our social contract. If you can’t do the math of what a 20 percent tip would equate to, just move the decimal point in the total over one space and double it.” After all, “one of the worst offenses a person can do is come to the restaurant with a calculator,” says Gache. “That does not give the United States a good name.”
Bartenders: For bartenders, it often depends on the number of drinks you ordered and whether those drinks were beer, wine or a mixed drink. (Gache suggests leaving over the usual $1 to $2 per drink in that case.) Similarly, the folks at Emily Post suggest tipping $1 to $2 per drink or 15 to 20 percent of the tab.
Bell caps: “Tipping bell caps depends if you travel heavily or not. If you do, I’d go as high as $5 per bag (with a minimum being $2 per bag),” says Gache. Daniel Post says that “$2 for the first bag and $1 per additional bag” is standard for bell caps. “And a smile and a thank you is huge for doormen.”
Concierge: “If you’re using the concierge in an ongoing manner, i.e. lots of requests over a longer period of time, I suggest giving a lump sum when you check out. At the very least, I’d tip $3 to $5 per request and even $20 for larger requests,” says Gache. As for the concierge, Post says you don’t need to tip for asking directions or simple requests but if they nab you a hard-to-get reservation, do tip.
Maid service: The problem, Gache notes, is that people don’t know to tip housekeepers in this country. The act “comes from your family and where you’ve traveled in life.” That said, Gache suggests leaving a cash tip of $2 to $3 per day at the end of your stay (if you’re messy, leave more). Adds Post: “A couple of dollars per day is pretty standard, but it’s also about the amount of service they give the room. If you have the ‘do not disturb’ sign up for three days straight, you don’t have to worry about tipping as much.” Also, he adds, “always leave a note marked ‘house keeping’ so they know it’s for them.”
Airport workers: For porters, if you pack heavily, give them a little more than usual ($2 per bag).
WHILE ABROAD
“If you know you’re traveling abroad in advance, get a few tipping books or apps (HPT suggests GlobeTipping, an app which has info on tipping guidelines in more than 200 countries, or TippingBird for Android) since every country does vary,” says Gache.
Some general rules of thumb to follow: Round up. If you take a taxi and want to leave a tip, at the very least round up to the nearest denomination; it’s best to tip 10 percent of the total fare (for hotel cars tip between 10 and 15 percent). At restaurants, check your bill to make sure service is included and if not, tip 10 to 15 percent for dining. At hotels, tip bellmen and porters $1 to $3 per bag; tip the concierge $2 to $5 for basic requests and $20 or more for complicated requests.
For a country by country look, reference Mint.com’s map or Conde Nast Traveler’s guide here.
Check out a global tipping guide, courtesy of visual.ly, below.
A Traveler"s Tipping Guide
Berlin"s Famous Street Art Threatened
A series of iconic murals painted onto the Berlin Wall are under threat of demolition, according to The Guardian.
The area is known as the East Side Gallery, an 0.8-mile stretch of the iconic monument covered in over one hundred designs by international artists, including a controversial painting of Soviet leader Leonid Bre hnev and German politician Erich Honecker locked in a passionate embrace (below). But this portion of the wall stands in the path of the city’s ongoing gentrification efforts and is set to be dismantled to make way for a block of luxury apartments.
The development project is being led by a group called Living Bauhaus, who described their endeavor as a “totally new dimension of life and living” on their website. Opponents of the over 200-foot tower, however, believe the monstrosity would destroy the city’s unique outdoor art space, a tourist attraction that sees around 1,000 visitors a day.
“All the paintings have become a symbol of freedom in Berlin and Europe,” artist Thierry Noir, the painter behind the giant colorful heads pictured above, told The Guardian. “Unlike elsewhere in the city, where the majority of the wall has been removed, this is a unique opportunity to preserve a large section of what was once a death strip. If you remove the sections, you’re destroying the authenticity of this place.”
Construction on the new flats is set to begin this spring, opening up space for a new bridge connecting East and West Berlin as well, according to German news source, The Local.
This is the second time in a matter of several years that the wall has had segments removed to make way for city projects. Will Berlin become one big strip mall? Let us know your thoughts in the comments section below.
“My God, Help Me To Survive This Deadly Love,” Dmitri Vrubel, 1990, 3650 cm × 4800 cm (1437 in × 1889 in), East Side Gallery, Germany
MORE ARTS NEWS
New London Art Fair Claims To Europe’s ‘First Truly Global’ Event: Art13 London opened in the UK today, welcoming 122 dealers from 31 countries to the giant contemporary art event. “Fairs like Frie e and Art Basel tend to be a bit Western-centric,” Jasdeep Sandhu, director of the Singapore-based Gajah Gallery, told Bloomberg News. “This presentation has a more global focus. It’s what the future of the art market might be.” (Bloomberg)
City Planners Approve Gehry-Designed Facebook Campus: The new Facebook campus, imagined by super-designer Frank Gehry, received the green light from the Menlo Park Planning Committee. An official statement from the project’s environmental impact report stated that “the new development would have more positive than negative effects on the area.” Good news for Gehry fans… (ARTINFO)
David Lynch Gushes About Photography: We could listen to Mr. Lynch talk about photography for hours, but we will have to be content with eight minutes and 36 seconds. “It’s a very, very special medium,” the director proclaims in the video above. (Dallas News)
Kanye Compares Himself To Basquiat, Remains Humble As Ever: In a recent rant following a performance in Paris, the great Kanye compared himself to Disney, Steve Jobs and the street-artist-turned-gallery-darling, Jean-Michel Basquiat. “I am Picasso, I am Michelangelo, I am Basquiat,” he said to fans. To hear the full list of references, see the video below. (The Daily Swarm)
Berlin"s Famous Street Art Threatened
Phnom Penh On The Cheap
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — The Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh is rapidly moderni ing. A gargantuan hotel and casino called NagaWorld has recently been completed, and dime-a-do en skyscrapers are popping up all over the city. But some of the city’s most interesting places are connected to its past. A number of museums honor victims of the Khmer Rouge genocide, while French Colonial architecture harkens back to a bygone era when the city was known as the Pearl of Asia. Decades later, the nickname still seems apt, suggesting pure beauty inside a tough shell.
Phnom Penh’s developing tourism sector also means that nearly every attraction has an entry fee, even if just a dollar or two. But in keeping with history, some sites cost nothing at all.
CHROY CHANGVAR BRIDGE
To observe a country at a crossroads, what better place than a serene suspension bridge? Constructed in 1966 and rebuilt in 1995 after its destruction at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, the Japanese-Cambodian Friendship Bridge provides a panoramic look at life along both sides of the Tonle Sap River. Make treks across the narrow footpath if you dare, though be prepared to dodge oncoming traffic, or simply pause to admire a view that stretches for miles.
SISOWATH QUAY
For a waterfront adventure a bit closer to the ground, wander past the charming cafe, boisterous pubs and many shops along this popular riverfront stretch. With the Royal Palace in the background, duck into the galleries along Street 178, known to locals as Art Street, for a glimpse at local handicrafts and silk samples. Overlooking the Chaktomuk, the convergence point of the city’s three rivers – the Tonle Sap, the Mekong, and the Basaac – this paved walkway bustles at any time of day but comes alive at night, when tourists and locals alike pour into mainstays like the Foreign Correspondents Club bar.
PHSAR THOM THMEI
Beneath a lemon-yellow art deco dome, the Central Market offers miles of no-strings-attached window-shopping. But if you can’t stand the thought of leaving empty-handed, pick up flip-flops, jewelry, delicacies like juicy mangosteen fruit or fried insects, or khama scarves in bright, gingham-like patterns. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, the nearby Night Market (Phsar Reatrey) becomes to go-to spot for displaying handicrafts produced by local artisans.
TEMPLE TIME
With a pricetag of a dollar, admission to the centuries-old hilltop temple of Wat Phnom isn’t quite free. Nor are the elephant rides that are offered on site. But a free and carefree stroll along the bucolic grounds is a reward in and of itself. Sculpted into the hillside leading to the temple’s entrance is a functioning topiary clock, whereas the gigantic sculpture of a Naga, or sea snake, provides yet another photo op.
MONUMENTAL TRIBUTES
Though statues crop up in unusual places around town, two of the most iconic structures sit just steps away from the Royal Palace. Inspired by lotus blossoms and Buddhist stupas, or burial mounds, the bulbous spire of the Independence Monument is a striking shade of terra cotta by day and brightly illuminated by night. Glowing or not, it was constructed in 1958 to commemorate independence from the French that had been achieved five years prior. The concrete soldiers at the base of the Cambodian Vietnamese Friendship Monument, on the other hand, pay tribute to an alliance formed between the two countries in the aftermath of the 1979 fall of the Khmer Rouge. But its political message makes it a lightning rod for protest – in 2007, unidentified suspects detonated a bomb near the statue.
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Phnom Penh On The Cheap
And The No. 1 Spring Break "Gaycation" Destination Of 2013 Is...
Scores of gay college students will no doubt be taking a break from the books and flocking to Fort Lauderdale over the next few weeks, as the city takes the top spot in a new poll of Spring Break “gaycation” destinations.
“Destination dating” website MissTravel.com surveyed approximately 15,400 users who identified themselves as gay college students. With 902 gay student travelers planning trips to Fort Lauderdale, the Florida hotspot easily came in at No. 1, followed by Palm Springs, Calif. (633 planned trips) and Key West, Fla. (569 trips).
When it comes to Spring Break, gay travelers seemed to really favor the Sunshine State — Miami and Panama City also made the top 10, a fact which did not go unnoticed by MissTravel.com officials.
Take a look at the top 10 gay spring break destinations below, and tell us where you’re traveling in 2013!
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And The No. 1 Spring Break "Gaycation" Destination Of 2013 Is...
Rick Steves: The Best (And Newest) Bits Of Britain
As we’re about the only travel guidebook publisher that endeavors to visit every place in person every year when we update our annual editions, we catch lots of important little changes from year to year. We collect these in a series of articles for our travelers. This week, we’re sharing all the latest in Italy, France, Britain and Germany. I hope these country-specific travel news flashes are of help in turning your travel dreams into smooth, efficient and affordable reality. Up today: Great Britain.
Great Britain will likely be taking a deep breath (and perhaps a sigh of relief) this year as it recovers from a busy summer, when it hosted both the Olympics and Queen Eli abeth’s Diamond Jubilee.
Despite the flurry of investment that swept Britain in the lead-up to the Olympics, austerity measures have taken their toll on Britain’s tourist information services. I’ve long been disappointed in Britain’s inability to see that tourist information is an investment in an important industry that brings in business. Rather, Britain views tourist-info offices as businesses in their own right, having to scramble to stay afloat like the countless attractions they’re supposedly designed to serve. As a result, tourist offices across the country are either closing or morphing into shops peddling tourist activities, information, and knickknacks for a profit. The biggest hit is in London, where the Britain and London Visitors Centre near Piccadilly Circus has closed. Now the only publicly funded (and therefore impartial) tourist office is the City of London Information Centre, across from St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Even with these issues, London remains a dynamic destination. One of the biggest changes is to its skyline, which now boasts Europe’s tallest building, designed by Ren o Piano, the co-architect of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Rocketing 1,020 feet above the south end of London Bridge, the Shard (www.the-shard.com) shimmers in the sun and glows like the city’s nightlight after dark. The tip houses a 15-story stack of observation platforms enclosed in glass which opened to the public in February.
Visitors hoping to capture some of the Olympic afterglow can soon visit the new Queen Eli abeth Olympic Park. The northern part, opening this summer, will feature footpaths, playgrounds, and picnic-friendly greens. The southern half, highlighted by the twisty red Orbit, is slated to open in spring of 2014. Visitors will also be able to swim in the pool where Michael Phelps won his 18th gold medal, as construction is underway to open up the Aquatics Centre for public leisure (pronounced LEH- hoor in Britain).
Travelers interested in royalty will delight in the newly refurbished Kensington Palace, (www.hrp.org.uk/KensingtonPalace) which now hosts a worthwhile series of exhibits on its most notable past residents, including William and Mary, and the Hanovers (the “Georges”). The highlight is the exhibit on Queen Victoria, who was born and raised in this palace.
The wi arding world is abu over the opening of the “Making of Harry Potter” studio tour in Leavesden, a 20-minute train ride from London. The attraction lets Potter-philes see the actual sets and props used in the films, along with exhibits about how the special effects were created. Visitors must book a time slot in advance–and in 2013, it’s smart to do so as far ahead as possible (www.wbstudiotour.co.uk).
In Bath, a 90-minute train ride west of London, visitors to the Roman and Medieval Bath can now avoid lines–worst on Saturdays and any day in summer–by buying advance tickets online (www.romanbaths.co.uk).
Near Bath, visitors can explore Avebury Manor and Garden, the subject of The Manor Reborn, a four-hour BBC documentary on the refurbishment of the 500-year-old estate by a team of historians and craftspeople. Nine rooms decorated in five different styles show the progression of design trends from Tudor to Queen Anne to early 20th-century. A limited number of timed tickets are sold each day.
London’s newest skyscraper, the Shard–shown here nearly completed–is visible from virtually anywhere along the Thames. (photo credit: Cameron Hewitt)
Along England’s southern coast, the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard complex will soon welcome a new museum displaying the 16th-century warship Mary Rose (Henry VIII’s favorite ship) and numerous Tudor-era items found inside the wreck.
In the charming city of York, in northeast England, the noble Kit Kat, Aero bars and Chocolate Oranges are now featured in a fun attraction dubbed “Chocolate: York’s Sweet Story” (all three confections were famously born in York). Visits start with a film and guided tour before flowing into a virtual chocolate factory.
Renovations continue at the stately York Minster. While the Great East Window remains behind scaffolding, several examples of the window’s stained glass can be viewed up close in the Orb, a space-age-looking vessel located inside the Minster.
Two relatively new museums in Liverpool and Glasgow celebrate the heritage of these proud and scrappy port cities. The Museum of Liverpool is packed with interactive displays covering everything from the city’s music and sports background to housing and health issues. Glasgow’s Riverside Museum of Transport and Travel sports high-tech displays, a re-creation of a 20th-century street, and plenty of recollecting Glaswegian seniors. Its vast collection includes stagecoaches, locomotives, the world’s oldest bicycle, and the Glenlee, one of Glasgow’s five remaining tall ships (docked outside the museum).
After a momentous year, 2013 should mark a return to normalcy in Great Britain. For many residents and travelers, that’s a welcome change.
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Rick Steves: The Best (And Newest) Bits Of Britain