hips don't lie: Enjoying a Baltic cruise with Antiques Roadshow expert Lars Tharp

By

Wendy Gomersall

PUBLISHED:

05:19 EST, 2 June 2013

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UPDATED:

05:19 EST, 2 June 2013

Few sea voyages encompass such a mixture of fantastic cities as a cruise to the Baltics.

As well as destinations formerly in the grip of the Russian Empire – enchanting Tallinn, for example – it’s the easiest way to get to St Petersburg as you don’t need a visa to leave the ship on official excursions. Make sure your itinerary includes wonderful Copenhagen, too, and you’re in for a triple treat.

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Nuts about tradition: Girls sell almond paste in Tallinn’s old town

As an extra bonus, my 13-night Fred Olsen cruise aboard Black Watch departed and finished at Dover, so no nasty airports to negotiate either.

Guests on my cruise included Antiques Roadshow regular Lars Tharp, a popular onboard speaker. Lars has crisscrossed the Baltic region many times and happily shares his tips on three of his favourite cities: Tallinn, St Petersburg and his home town of Copenhagen.

Lars has often visited Tallinn, capital of Estonia, and there’s nowhere quite like it, he says. Its kernel is an old medieval town which, despite the ravages of war, doesn’t appear to have changed for 500 years. Its skyline of spires looks like a theatrical set. Essentially it’s a tourist town, beloved of stag parties, and it’s not cheap – head away from the main square for less expensive restaurants.

‘My must-sees include the 14th Century Church of the Holy Spirit,’ says Lars.

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Relic spotting in Scandinavia: A viking buckle in Copenhagen

‘Inside, there’s a beautiful altar by Bernt Notke and, something close to my heart, a special Danish flag.’ According to legend, in 1219 the Danes were losing heavily at the Battle of Valdemar near Lyndanisse (Tallinn). Then, a flag fell through the clouds, the tide turned and Denmark was victorious. The Dannebrog – a full white cross on a red field – became the national flag, one of the oldest in existence.

Tallinn also has wonderful handicrafts. In the narrow streets there are millions of miles of knitting on market stalls near the city wall, leatherwork, felt goods, glassware and chic jewellery.

For many, the highlight of a Baltics cruise is St Petersburg. Do book tickets for an evening concert at the Hermitage if you can, advises Lars, and enjoy some amazing art beforehand.

See a Tchaikovsky ballet if possible, too. ‘It doesn’t matter if it’s not at the Mariinsky [St Petersburg"s famous ballet theatre and opera house] – any of the city troupes will perform it with skill and passion as it belongs to them, and it will be as good a ballet as you’ll see anywhere in the world,’ says Lars. ‘My must-sees also include Cruiser Aurora, which fired the signal for the Russian Revolution to begin, and the Peterhof Palace with its magnificent fountains.’

Don’t miss Alexander Nevsky Monastery and the Tikhvin Cemetery, where you’ll find graves of Rimsky-Korsakov, Borodin, Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky and Dostoyevsky. But, remember, you will need a visa if you intend to explore by yourselves, rather than on an official tour.

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Unique: There’s nowhere quite like Tallinn, says antiques expert Lars Tharp

Lars was born in Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital and largest city. ‘Of course I am biased,’ he says, ‘but it is a wonderful city.’ Your itinerary must include the Tivoli Gardens, founded in 1843 (and where Lars’s mother and father met). It’s a very safe, fun, civilised place to go for an evening, and open until at least 11pm.

If you’re lucky, you can catch a ballet at the beautiful old pantomime theatre or a classical concert at the concert hall.

Tivoli has something for everyone, including rides and amusements, beautiful gardens and great restaurants.

Another Lars recommendation is the National Museum. ‘I have to keep faith with my grandfather who was Keeper of Antiquities there,’ he says. The largest Viking ship ever seen, at 120ft long and able to hold 100 warriors, goes on display there this year from June 22 until November 17.

Travel facts

Fred Olsen Cruises (0800 0355 150, fredolsencruises.com) offers a 12-day Baltic cruise aboard Black Watch departing Dover on November 24 from £699, including full board. Ports of call include Warnemünde (for tours to Berlin), Tallinn, St Petersburg, Helsinki, Copenhagen and Kiel.

Lars Tharp is guest speaker aboard the 14-night art and antiques-themed Fred Olsen Art Of The Mediterranean cruise on Balmoral, departing from Southampton on September 27, 2013.