At Tahoe, off-slope adventures abound

This time of year it’s difficult to think of Tahoe with anything by a one-track (or two-ski-track) mind.

But the dominant culture of snow sports can be misleading in a place with more than its share of diversions that have nothing to do with boards, bindings or lift tickets that require a third mortgage. Yes, there are other refuges for nonskiers than to toss dice in a casino or sit around in a condo watching Squallywood ski porn.

Off-slope offerings at Northern California’s favorite winter playground cater to all ages and persuasions, and in a heavy snow year like this one, the only limitation is your level of motivation. Think fireplaces, cozy restaurants and both outdoor and indoor adventures.

Using Truckee as a base, you’ll be within 30 minutes of myriad places to play on Tahoe’s North Shore.

Why now? It’s a winter wonderland up there. Consider: 173 inches of snow fell at Northstar California’s 8,300-foot summit in December, compared with nary a flake the December before. The scenery looks so different than in summer, you’d think you’re on another planet.

The backstory: Tahoe’s signature ski town, Truckee is a walkable blend of Old West funkiness, New West sophistication and an energy level stuck on high.

Checking in: Cedar House Sport Hotel is a rewarding choice both for its unusual Eurodecor and its avant-garde restaurant, Stella. Breakfast and afternoon hors d’oeuvres are complimentary, and the in-house tour company can arrange private snowshoe outings and other adventures that include transportation and equipment.

River Street Inn, walking distance from the Truckee train station and just a block from the main drag, is a convivial, alpine-style bed-and-breakfast well situated for those who want to eat out or party late without having to drive.

Spend your day: Explore Truckee, from the boutiques and galleries on Commercial Row to the pioneer history exhibits at Donner Memorial State Park (bring snowshoes for a gorgeous tromp through the woods).

If speed’s your thing, redirect that $170 you might have spent on lift ticket and rental gear to a two-person snowmobile tour that will have you vrooming to a panoramic viewpoint overlooking the lake. Also high-end is a dog-sled tour or horse-drawn sleigh ride at the Resort at Squaw Creek.

On the budget end, it costs just $5 to swoon over classic wooden boats from the 1920s on display at the Tahoe Maritime Museum at Homewood.

Tots who don’t have the stamina for a full day in the snow should enjoy Granlibakken, a West Shore lodge in Sunnyside with machine-groomed sledding and snow play areas.

At Northstar, adults can enjoy ringside libations and treat the kids to s’mores after they’ve twirled themselves silly on the outdoor ice rink.

To appease finicky teens, promise to stop on the way home at Woodward Tahoe, a new, indoor action-sports training facility at Boreal Mountain Resort on Interstate 80. It’s bigger than a football field and filled with ramps, foam pits and trampolines for practicing skateboard, BMX, snowboard and tumbling maneuvers.

Dining: You want to get close to the lake, don’t you? Lone Eagle Grille at Incline Village is an elegant waterfront venue opening onto a sandy beach set about with oh-so-inviting fire pits and Adirondack chairs. Go for lunch, rather than dinner, to enjoy floor-to-ceiling views of Big Blue. Entree salads and house-made pastas are specialties, but you’ll also find wintertime yummies such as cream of wild mushroom soup and butternut squash risotto.

In downtown Truckee, Moody’s Bistro, Bar Beats is celebrated as much for the live entertainment presented on weekends as for chef Guy Frenette’s seasonal mountain cuisine. Grown-ups might drool over coffee-braised bison short ribs, but kids go straight for the house-made corn dogs with Coca-Cola ketchup.

Don’t miss: Secret Underground Tunnel Tours at Cal-Neva Resort in Crystal Bay. Frank Sinatra owned the place in the 1960s, and tunnels were constructed so that Marilyn Monroe and other celebrity guests could scuttle between cabins and casino without ending up in the tabloids. Guided tours are gossipy good fun.

Don’t bother: Traveling southbound on highways 89 or 267 from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. or northbound from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. That’s when ski-area traffic is at its heaviest, and you won’t get anywhere fast.

Word to the wise: Program the Caltrans road-conditions number ((800) 427-7623) into your phone and keep an eye to the sky. If snow is in the forecast, bolt early to avoid being featured on the evening news as one of those unfortunate souls crouched in a blizzard at the side of the road, wrestling with tire chains.

If you go

Getting there

Amtrak (amtrak.com) trains and buses are an alternative to fighting conditions on Interstate 80. Adult fares range $48 to $83 each way, kids ride for half price. From Truckee, you can reach most of the North Shore by taxi, resort shuttles or Tahoe Area Regional Transit (laketahoetransit.com).

Where to stay

Cedar House Sport Hotel: 10918 Brockway Road, Truckee; cedarhousesporthotel.com, (866) 582-5655. Rates from $180 include breakfast buffet. Dog-friendly.

River Street Inn: 10009 East River St., Truckee; riverstreetinntruckee.com, (530) 550-9290. Rates from $130 include breakfast. If you’re a light sleeper, beware: You will hear trains.

Where to eat

Lone Eagle Grille: 111 Country Club Drive, Incline Vilage; loneeaglegrille.com, (775) 886-6899. Entrees from $20, starters from $10, views free and fabulous.

Moody’s Bistro, Bar Beats: 10007 Bridge St., Truckee; www.moodysbistro.com, (503) 587-8688. Dinner for two with wine, $100.

What to do

Donner Memorial State Park: 12593 Donner Pass Road, Truckee; http://bit.ly/bJIbBg. (530) 582-7892. Parking, $8 per vehicle, includes museum admission and snowshoe access.

Lake Tahoe Snowmobile Tours: Highway 267, 8 miles south of Truckee and 3 miles north of Kings Beach, east side of road; www.laketahoesnowmobilingtours.com, (530) 546-4280. Guided two-hour summit adventure is $140 for a single rider, $170 for two. Clothing rental is $10 extra.

Truckee River Winery: 11467 Brockway Road, Truckee; truckeeriverwinery.com, (530) 587-4626. Cozy tasting room, snowshoe walks, weekday happy hours and Sunday specials. Open daily noon to 7 p.m.

Granlibakken: 725 Granlibakken Road, Sunnyside; granlibakken.com, (530) 581-7533. Saucer rental and snow play in developed area, $12 per person.

Tahoe Maritime Museum: 5205 W. Lake Blvd., Homewood; tahoemaritimemuseum.org, (530) 525-9235. Open Fridays-Sundays in winter. Adults $5, children 12 and younger free.

Resort at Squaw Creek: 400 Squaw Creek Road, Squaw Valley; squawcreek.com, (530) 583.6300. Dogsled tours are $55-$75 for children, $110-$125 for adults. Sleigh rides run $30-$40 per person.

Woodward Tahoe: 19749 Boreal Ridge Road, Soda Springs; woodwardtahoe.com, (520) 426-1114 Ext. 2. First-timer training $49, after that two-hour sessions are $25. Ages 7 and up.

Secret Underground Tunnel Tours: Cal-Neva Resort, 2 Stateline Road, Stateline, Nev.; calnevaresort.com, (800) 233-5551. Offered Wednesdays-Sundays; $10 per person.

Truckee River Regional Park ice rink: 10050 Brockway Road, Truckee; tdrpd.com/ice_rink.html, (530) 582-7720. Admission $6, skate rental $2.

Northstar California: 5001 Northstar Drive, Truckee; northstarattahoe.com, (530) 562-3689. Cabanas with fire pits surround the rink. Admission free, skate rental $10.

Janet Fullwood is former travel editor of the Sacramento Bee. E-mail: travel@sfchronicle.com

At Tahoe, off-slope adventures abound