By
Carol Drinkwater
10:54 EST, 30 June 2013
|
13:49 EST, 30 June 2013
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My recent visit to the Windy City was fascinating. Chicago’s history is a classic American tale of reinvention, while its present is buzzy, chic and architecturally stunning.
I stayed at the Millennium Knickerbocker, a Gothic-inspired hotel that’s only steps from Michigan Avenue, otherwise known as the Magnificent Mile. I took my first unforgettable stroll down this street, one of the world’s best for shopping, while heading for the Chicago river to hop aboard a boat tour.
Iconic: There is no better way to discover Chicago’s skyline than from the water
There is no better way to discover this city’s iconic skyline than from the water. As you sail into the heart of the old city, you are dwarfed by landmark buildings such as the Sears Tower (now renamed the Willis Tower).
While I gazed in wonder, a local guide recounted the city’s history. In 1772, a black Haitian trader, Jean-Baptiste Pointe du Sable, founded a settlement on one of the banks of this once foul-smelling river. He called it ‘Eschikagou’ – native Indian for ‘smells like stinking onions’. Chicago was born.
A century later, the Great Fire engulfed the city, a conflagration that burned for four days, destroying three-and-half square miles of dwellings. The wooden-shacked metropolis was reduced to ashes. But donations to rebuild it poured in and reconstruction began.
Today, Chicago, with its stone and glass buildings, is possibly the most visually stunning in the United States. After disembarking the boat, I strolled to the Chicago Art Institute. Founded in the late 19th Century, it houses an eclectic collection of American and international canvases.
While I was in town, the gallery had a terrific exhibition called Picasso In Chicago. Alongside the gallery lies Millennium Park, where the kids will love Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate. This bean-shaped, stainless-steel sculpture reflects and warps the city’s skyline. However, for me, Frank Gehry’s 4,000-seat theatre, resembling a giant tin can, is the jewel in the crown.
Historic: Sports fans should head to Wrigley Field stadium, home to baseball team the Chicago Cubs
As evening approached, I strolled to the John Hancock Observatory and took the lift to the 96th floor. I watched the sun set over the blue horizon beyond Lake Michigan. More wow factor, unless you suffer from vertigo.
Once your stomach has flipped back, Chicago boasts an abundance of great restaurants. Joe’s Chicago on East Grand Avenue was my favourite.
The ambiance takes you back to the Roaring Twenties, the era of Prohibition, Al Capone, dance halls and the blues. Blues music, born in the southern cotton fields, found its way north to Chicago in this era. A good place to sample it is at the Blue Chicago, where I swigged beer while listening to a woman of generous proportions sing blues standards.
Another night, I slipped off to Rosa’s Lounge, acclaimed by The New York Times as the best blues venue in Chicago. It was perfect for a nightcap and one final jazz set.
The following morning, I jumped aboard the ‘Untouchable Tours’ bus to relive the city’s bootlegging history, which will teach you all about the gangsters and, of course, the 1929 St Valentine’s Day Massacre.
Sports fans should head to the stadium of baseball team the Chicago Cubs. Built in 1914, it was renamed Wrigley Field four years later when the chewing-gum magnate, William Wrigley Jnr, bought a controlling share in the club.
I also spent a sunny afternoon hiking the Lake Michigan shoreline and then headed back downtown to the Loop district, home to the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and the Goodman Theatre.
Four days in the ‘Stinky Onion’ is not sufficient. And, in case you’re still worrying about Mr Pointe du Sable’s observation, the river was cleaned up years ago.
Getting there
American Sky (0843 636 4509, americansky.co.uk) offers a three-night stay at the Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel, Chicago, from £779, for November departures.
Carol’s Drinkwater’s The Olive Route is published by Phoenix at £7.99 and as an e-book at £5.99
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As a Chicago resident for the last 30 years I can attest to the city’s incredible lakefront, architecture and night life. It is a wonderful place to live or visit. However, while the river no longer smells of onions, and the new river walk is worthwhile, saying that the river was cleaned up years ago is a bit of a stretch.
RSEG1
,
Chicago, United States,
02/7/2013 04:43
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As a Chicago resident for the last 30 years I can attest to the city’s incredible lakefront, architecture and night life. It is a wonderful place to live or visit. However, while the river no longer smells of onions, and the new river walk is worthwhile, saying that the river was cleaned up years ago is a bit of a stretch.
RSEG1
,
Chicago, United States,
02/7/2013 00:33
Report abuse
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Holidays in America: Iconic architecture, stunning views and gangster tours in buzzy, chic Chicago
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