hips don't lie: Luxury cruise holidays: The romance of cruising the Med on a fully-rigged sailing ship

By

Catherine Eade

PUBLISHED:

05:16 EST, 5 July 2013

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UPDATED:

05:16 EST, 5 July 2013

The idea of being trapped on an enormous cruise ship, reliant on mass-produced meals at set times has always filled me with horror.

But given the chance to experience a cruise on the largest square-rigged ship in the world, I didn’t hesitate. A love of tall sailing ships instilled in me from childhood by my father meant one look at a photograph of the Royal Clipper and I was hooked.

This floating colossus is one of three high-tech recreations of the classic ‘clipper’ ships such as the Cutty Sark which dominated the seas in the 19th century, taking passengers from England to Australia, or running cargoes of tea and silks from India.

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Breathtaking: The five-masted, 42-sail Royal Clipper in all its splendour is the largest square-rigged ship in the world. Here seen racing against its sister ship the Star Clipper

Star Clippers was set up in 1989 by Swedish sailing boat connoisseur and entrepreneur Mikael Kraft, and offers a range of voyages throughout the Mediterranean, Baltic Sea and Caribbean, as well as longer trans-Atlantic sailings, for passengers seeking a cruise with character.

The Royal Clipper, at 400 foot long, is even larger than its sisters the Star Flyer and Star Clipper, which were the first such vessels to be built since 1910.

The clippers of old were gradually sidelined by the rise of steamships and the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, so it does feel rather special to be sailing on a square-rigger – resplendent with its five masts and 42 sails.

Approaching the boat for the first time, docked in Barcelona, it takes my breath away. I wish my father were alive to join me on board.

Crew dressed in crisp white uniforms are busy cleaning and polishing and coiling ropes, and as the appointed time comes for us to depart, the fore and aft decks become a hive of activity.

Enthusiastic spectators onshore wave us off as the Clipper leaves Barcelona while the sun begins to set, next stop Mallorca. I’m on a four day mini-Mediterranean cruise which will culminate in Monaco, and am looking forward to the prospect of exploring this beautiful boat, complete with its Edwardian-styled interior.

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Picturesque: The imposing cathedral, left, dominates the waterfront in Palma de Mallorca. Right, A little way round the coast from the marina there are numerous quiet coves to be found for some sea swimming

Passengers are free to wander around most areas of the ship when the crew is not making it ready to land or cast off, and the captain welcomes guests to the bridge at any time, happily answering questions about the boat and its history.

Chatting to some of my fellow passengers that first evening, I quickly realise a high percentage of them are ‘returners’.

Many profess to a love of sailing when younger and all rave about being on board a beautiful, traditionally-styled boat rather than a conventional cruise ship. There is a more intimate atmosphere on this vessel than I imagine there is on larger vessels, as if all the passengers have a sort of shared secret that makes it easy to strike up conversation.

Although there are, as I expected, many retired American couples on board, I also notice a fair number of British and European families – mainly with older children – who seem quite content to sunbathe on deck or splash about in one of the three plunge pools.

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Favoured spot: Catherine enjoys hanging out in the nets at the bow of the boat, left. Right, climbing the rigging to the crow’s nest 15 metres up would be tricky without that safety harness

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Ship ahoy! Catherine (that’s the tiny speck in the centre) enjoys the vantage point from the crow’s nest, 15 metres above deck

Apart from at mealtimes, when the restaurant is buzzing with people, you would never know that this boat can take up to 227 passengers as well as 105 crew.

Dining is fairly relaxed, with an impressive ‘all you can eat’ buffet laid out at breakfast and lunchtime, while the evening meal is an a la carte affair which gives passengers the opportunity to spruce up a bit (no flip flops or shorts allowed).

Despite the fact that we are on a boat, it’s surprisingly easy to find a spot where there are no other passengers around. My favourite place is the wonderfully comfortable nets on either side of the bow – a delightful vantage point to read or watch the ocean glide by.

Our first stop is the picturesque port of Palma de Mallorca, with its imposing cathedral, and while many passengers choose to stay aboard, I walk round the coast a little away from the marina and find a secluded cove for a spot of swimming and sunbathing.

Walking back to port in the early evening a glimpse of the masts rising majestically above the other boats fills me with excitement and I practically have to pinch myself. As we cast off for Menorca that evening the customary crowd of onlookers waves us off.

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The atrium on the Royal Clipper is designed with Edwardian interiors in mind, left. Food on board is of a high standard, with buffets during the day and a more formal a la carte menu for the evenings, right

On the second morning, I wake early

despite more late night entertainment and socialising in the Tropical

Bar, and go up on deck to hurl myself into the pool before breakfast. A

magical sight awaits me.

All of the 42 sails have been rigged since the crack of dawn and yet we are practically motionless, bobbing somewhere between Mallorca and Menorca, waiting for the wind to return.

We are hardly at the mercy of the elements as the engine back up means the Clipper will always arrive in port at the appointed time, but there’s something Mary Celeste-like about floating like this, the wind occasionally rustling the sails and the odd cry of a gull the only sound.

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Taking the wheel for a spot of early morning ‘helming’ while the coast is clear

I have been looking forward to climbing the rigging and today my wish comes true as a small group of us are clipped into harnesses and let loose.

A five-minute leg-trembling clamber later I’m in the lowest crow’s nest – nonetheless a good 15 metres up – where the full splendour of the ship is even more powerful. I could happily sit up here all day.

Far below me people are craning their

necks and pointing, and I look skywards to see one of my colleagues

being hoisted right to the very top of the 54-metre mast, where he

dangles smiling and waving for quite some time.

Attempts

to get him to come down seemingly fall on deaf ears – and when he is

finally persuaded to descend – a good 20 minutes later – by the bosun

shouting good-naturedly up at him to ‘get back on that rope!’ he admits

it was one of the most exhilarating experiences he’s ever had.

Later that morning we arrive in Mahon, Menorca, where I’ve signed up for a four-hour mountain bike excursion.

Our 20-strong group rides through the

beautiful nature reserve of s’Albufera, with two guides pointing out

various flora and fauna until we hit some more challenging rough tracks.

I had forgotten how idyllic and peaceful Menorca is and make a mental

note to revisit.

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Wheels on fire: Catherine and fellow cyclists pedal through the idyllic s’Albufera National Park in Menorca

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Peace: Menorca’s beautiful nature reserve is well worth a visit

The next day we spend mainly at sea, floating motionless in the sun. Usually there is the option to swim off the boat or do some waterskiing or diving, but the ocean is too deep here to drop anchor and lower the watersports platform so I spend my time catching up on some reading.

As the passengers relax, the crew take the opportunity to swab the decks, revarnish the handrails and polish all the brass. The amount of work needed to upkeep this ship is not lost on me.

An occasional whale or dolphin in the distance breaks the surface of the ocean as I read and snooze, the low chatter of guests and crew little more than a hum.

The final leg of my journey is to Monaco, where those of us on the short cruise reluctantly disembark. It certainly does not feel like I’ve only had four days at sea: Covering so much ground in a short time means I feel like I’ve been away for at least a week.

I’m determined to stay in touch with some of my new-found sea-friends, and now know why so many of them are ‘returners’. “See you next time?” says one of the cheery crew as I walk down the gang-plank onto dry land.

Hmmm. I think I could be tempted.

Travel facts

Star Clipper cruises range from 3 to 11 nights through the Mediterranean, Baltic Sea, Scandinavia, Central America and the Caribbean, with trans-Atlantic crossings and longer voyages also available.

A three-night Mediterranean sail costs from £680pp, or £1,435 for a week including three meals a day and all port calls.

To book visit www.starclippers.co.uk or call Star Clippers reservations on 0845 2006145